Going to the street market 2 weeks in a row & I know this will be my Saturday morning routine from now on... Only thing that could change might be the people I go with...
It makes me feel so alive & instills a desire in me to cook & be healthy when I see the beautiful & abundant assortment of fruits & veggies. It also piques my curiosity to see whole pigs and chickens being butchered before my very eyes!
To describe the event, I really do have to start at the beginning... We arrived at a side street that is normally used for traffic M-F, but on Saturday its all street market- at least 1/2 mile long. A chubby cheeked boy knocks on our car window asking if we need parking...& guides us to "his" spot against the curb which was reserved by upside down 5 gallon buckets. He will now "watch" our car, and his other customers' cars while we shop.
Our first veggie stand is the primo stand of the street, has best selection, best location & the girl working it remembered me from last week - or she is a really good sales girl & just made it seem like she did. She answers Q's, help package up what I want & then volunteers to hold our bags under the table to pick up upon our departure, because they are chock full of leafy green, earthy-smelling veggies!
As we make our way through the stands that are erected each week, one next to another, I wonder if their placements are assigned or first come first served each weekend..
The veggie stand is next to a fresh fish stand, where huge fish are being expertly filleted - with skilled precision & speed! Of course Kirsti does not like the smell... But it could be the huge vat of oil in the stand behind us, frying pig skins that adds to the aroma.. Or the stand next to that, where the pig was just butchered, his whole head sitting on display, that may be part of what she smells... No coincidence I guess that these stands are side-by-side. What one discards, the other fries & sells as his product.
No matter, onward we go.. Fortunately, today we have Kirsti's friend & her mom by our sides, to help translate & answer questions about Mexican foods. Not only do we have food to browse, but a selection of household items, like vegetable brushes & soaps to refurbished blenders - very handy for making smoothies from all this beautiful fruit! There are shoe stands & purse stands - calling out to Kirsti.. And then several stands that were selling make up. All of it looked new, but all of it out of any sort of packaging... Kirsti said she needs mascara... Not from here I tell her!
Kirsti's friend's mom is looking for a hen.. A chicken? I point to a stand. No, she wants the mother of those chickens. Now, what that looks like, compared to the chickens I see on display I do not know! We inquire a few places & learn we will have to come early next Sat., to get that prized possession. As proof that the owner of the stand really in fact carried hens earlier in the day, she rips open a baggie with the head, larger feet & some innards that earlier today belonged to a hen, that some other, lucky shopper got to take home... So I will have to wait a week to see a hen versus a chicken..
I buy beautiful fruit, pomegranates that are green on the outside, but have a zillion perfect red jewels inside. How do I know I have good ones? The stand owner expertly cuts them open with a razor blade, now I too, know this valuable skill that will save stains on clothes & causes the loss of precious juices!!
I also pick some apples, they have produce stickers on them... Product of ?? Guesses?? Product of the USA. Interesting, huh?
So we walk on, we meet a woman with an iguana, a huge iguana, clinging to her shirt... Its her pet, they pose for pictures for us. We pass stands where dried beans & even dried shrimps are sold. We see a stand with large trays of paste - molé - this is something I know nothing about yet... Other than it makes a dark, rich sauce & it contains chilies & chocolate.
Continue to steer Kirsti away from purses, so she settled on some candies. Across from that stand was a woman with a propane tank with a huge griddle on it. I have seen a few women like her, making things on these griddles so we ask.. She made a paste from blue corn. She grabs a handful & kneads it into a ball then flattens it to a thin tortilla, she does this in like 60 seconds! The she adds refried beans, cheese, meat.. whatever you like, & folds edges so the thin seam in on top & drops it on the griddle... I really want one.. But still too skittish about my food intolerances & know I need to wait a bit..
People are everywhere, bumping into each other, shopping, selling, eating!
There are massive food tables-like lunch lines set up... You get your taco or whatever & walk through the condiment line to fix it your way.. Then walk & eat - this is their FAST FOOD! I saw kids eating giant corn on the cobs, on a skewer, corn on a stick! The ingenious part was their use of a cup cake liner shimmied up the stick to catch drips or falling corn kernels! Here, in Mexico, people eat corn differently..
They slather it with mayo, not butter!
The kids today had the corn rolled in shredded cheeses (let me say, cheeses here are different, yummy, so don't judge this concoction.. Yet).
And finally, all corn is GENEROUSLY sprinkled with chili powder & then lime squeezed on top!
I have to say, it was interesting, it has piqued my curiosity...
We walk back to the car, collect our bags at the veggie stand where they were waiting for us.. The stand "girl" will not accept a tip (??), she is happy to be needed & be helpful!
We get to the car & the chubby faced boy appears to collect his fee - which is whatever we want to pay him because it is after all, a free street.. So our friend asks the boy a question, the answer is the amount of "tip" she is going to give him... He should be able to answer this Q & be thrilled to receive it.... He cannot answer the Q.... She smiles & gives him the pesos... Our hearts break as we drive away, knowing this is 1 mile from where we live; in extreme luxury, sending our children to one of the top schools in Mexico... This sweet 10yr old boy did not know the answer to 5 x 5.....